Ammonium thioglycolate: Hair perming and texture control

Ammonium thioglycolate, also known as thioglycolic acid ammonium salt, is a chemical compound commonly used in hairdressing for perming and texture control.

Ammonium thioglycolate, also known as thioglycolic acid ammonium salt, is a chemical compound commonly used in hairdressing for perming and texture control. It is an essential ingredient in many hair products designed to create curls, waves, and other desired hairstyles. Here is an overview of the role of ammonium thioglycolate in hair perming and texture control:

  1. Hair Perming Process:
    Ammonium thioglycolate plays a crucial role in the hair perming process by altering the hair's natural structure and creating a permanent curl pattern. The process typically involves the following steps:

    a. Softening: First, the hair is treated with a reducing agent, usually a solution containing ammonium thioglycolate. This agent breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair's keratin protein structure, allowing it to become more pliable and easily manipulated.

    b. Shaping: The hair is then wrapped around perm rods or curlers in the desired pattern. The size and type of rods used will determine the resulting curl size and shape.

    c. Fixing: After shaping the hair, an oxidizing agent, commonly hydrogen peroxide, is applied to the hair. This step reforms the broken disulfide bonds in the new shape, effectively "fixing" the curls or waves.

    d. Neutralizing: Finally, a neutralizing solution is applied to stop the perming process and restore the pH balance of the hair. The neutralizer contains an oxidizing agent that helps reestablish the disulfide bonds in the newly formed curl pattern.

  2. Texture Control:
    Ammonium thioglycolate is also used in products aimed at texture control, such as relaxers or straightening treatments. In this process, the ammonium thioglycolate solution is applied to the hair to break down the disulfide bonds and soften the curl pattern. The hair is then straightened using heat or other techniques. The neutralizing step is crucial in this process to reestablish the disulfide bonds in the straightened position.

  3. Safety Precautions:
    When using ammonium thioglycolate for hair perming or texture control, it is essential to follow safety precautions. Ammonium thioglycolate can be a skin and eye irritant, so gloves and protective eyewear should be worn during application. Adequate ventilation is necessary to avoid inhaling the fumes or vapors. It is also important to carefully follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test to check for any adverse reactions.

Ammonium thioglycolate has revolutionized the hairstyling industry by providing a means to create permanent curls or alter hair texture. However, it should be used with caution and by trained professionals to minimize the risk of damage to the hair or scalp. Understanding the role of ammonium thioglycolate in hair perming and texture control allows for informed decision-making and safe application of these hairstyling techniques.


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